Biryani to Natu Kodi ramen: Hyderabad is reinventing Telugu food

Hyderabad is witnessing a very important cultural change in its modern history where chefs and restaurants are redrawing Telugu cuisine.

Hyderabad: If someone told me earlier that the flavours of Biryani could be somehow fused into Ramen, I’d have looked at the person with squinted eyes as if I’d just heard something moronic. But then, it is 2026, and the world is changing. And so is Telugu food. I believe Hyderabad right now is witnessing a very important cultural change in its modern history where chefs and restaurants are redrawing the contours of what Telugu cuisine is, and serving us dishes that could put us on the global map for it.

I think it is also important and worth mentioning that food in general is never static. Nothing is ‘pure’ in that sense, as what we call traditional also, may have influences from places we wouldn’t have thought of.

And before I go forward with this, let me be very clear. I still love my Biryani and everything Hyderabadi when it comes to food. Marag, Pathar Ka Gosht, Haleem, and whatever else you can think of. Same goes for Telugu food, which is also part of our city’s milieu and honestly it needed a revamp because all we think of is Andhra meals and Fish Pulusu when someone mentions it. Don’t get me wrong here, both are great, and I love the days I end up at Kakatiya Mess to stuff myself with rice, Pappu, and everything on my meals. But I think it is time we accept the progression of it.

The new experimental, traditional and imaginative Telugu food menus

So when chef Rohit Chidurala from ROCH Chef Stable invited me for a tasting menu at his outlet in Kondapur, I curiously said yes, wondering what I was in for. I’ve eaten food in Japan and in South-East Asia in recent years, so this sort of combination wasn’t exactly something that I would have looked forward to trying, generally speaking (part of me is a purist, but then as someone who dabbles in history, the biggest learning is that there is no such thing is purity when it comes to food as mentioned earlier).

Similarly, his invitation was followed by another lunch at the newly launched Anaganaga – Telugu Culinary Tales at Rd No 45 in Jubilee Hills. This was an even more interesting invite, as just days before I had gone to eat another newly opened Telugu food place called Kosta, which has stuck to serving traditional coastal Andhra cuisines. If you are tired of the crowded Kakatiya Mess and want a more relaxed place with a surprisingly economical offering (for the location), then head to Kosta without a second thought.

Between Kosta and ROCH, I naturally assumed that Anaganana (once upon a time in Telugu) was doing ‘fusion’ which is what people generally do as a trend to start something new. But I was wrong, because the menu at Anaganaga in fact comes with a lot of research on lost or forgotten Telugu recipes from across Telangana, coastal Andhra and Rayalaseema. It serves traditional food as well, but has what it describes as ‘imaginative’ dishes on the menu.

(Of course, it goes without saying that Theta Theta Telugu set the ball rolling a year ago with its lovely menu. TTT is also the only place that was featured on Conde Nast Traveller’s Top 50 restaurant list, and rightly so.)

I don’t know how I managed to walk out of Anaganaga that day because I was so full thanks to the restaurant making sure I tried almost everything (I am certainly going back on my own later as well to taste other things). But both the places left me quite excited in terms of how things are shaping up in Hyderabad. And for better understanding, I’m just going to break down both places and why both are a must try.

ROCH

What followed at the dinner with Rohit was an absolute feast of a different kind. ROCH essentially serves Telugu food, but in Japanese formats (and influences if I can say that). Chidurala, a native of Warangal in Telangana, has worked in Michelin star restaurants outside of India and come up with his own ideas of what to serve. His food is an elevated version of flavours we are familiar with, but in very unexpected yet pleasant flavours.

I went for the 9-course non-veg menu of course, but I have been told the veg menu is also equally fabulous. Now, I am not going into every single thing I ate, because I also believe in leaving some element of surprise. But what I will however say is that some of dishes, if not all, on his menu for dinner left me awestruck. The Goat Neck especially was nothing short of a masterpiece in terms of slow cooked tenderised meat that was so soft and almost melted within the first few bites.

I’d say that even for someone (like me) who is somewhat conservative in terms of trying new or experimental food, it was a revelation. The set menu was in fact the beginning of what would become a craving to ROCH, because when I learnt Rohit also made Biryani Miso and Gongura Ramen, I was sold. I had to try it and I took along with me whoever I could. Remember before the internet when word would spread about nice things without any marketing? That’s the joy I felt when eating Rohit’s food.

Honestly, I am not really going to use adjectives to describe the flavour bomb his ramen creates, but as a Hyderabadi and someone who also enjoys Telugu cuisine, it is a must try. People are paying top dollar for a piece of mutton at Basavakalyan and Laham (for good reason), and I see no reason why everyone should try this also.

And what impressed me the most however was the very very subtle but incredible coffee flan (caramel custard). When I went for the third time with friends, we initially ordered two, but then added another of these. Rohit should take a bow, because – and I say with utmost seriousness – I have not tasted such a perfect flan anywhere else to date. The only catch is that ROCH is a 10 or 11 seater, in an L-shaped seating, so trying reserving a spot or just contact Rohit before you go to make things easier. Plus it is in Gachibowli, so I would say time your visit accordingly

Anaganaga – Telugu Culinary Tales

You know, as we age, we can’t exactly do the things that were once easy for us in our youth, or in my 20s in my case. Over eating was always a vice for me, and I have successfully veered myself away from that kind of overindulgence for most parts (weddings are an exception). But about a month ago after I visited Anaganaga to taste the food and understand the place, and I found myself unable to walk for a minute after I was done eating because of how much food I ate.

Since then, anytime I’ve had travellers ask me what’s new in Hyderabad, I point them to Anaganaga (and a few other places) especially if they are looking at a new experience. Because see, our city will always have its classics – the Biryanis, Marag, Pathar Ka Gosht etc – and we love it, but then food cannot always be static and kabhi kabhi we need to also look beyond. And there has always been this presumption that Telugu is only about Andhra meals or spicy chicken pulaos among people, and that it can’t be elevated. So I am glad that that notion is being broken.

Partners Rohith Vasireddy and Gopichand Cherukuri who I met during my lunch at Anaganaga in fact had something similar to say in terms of breaking the stereotype about Telugu cuisine. Like we all love Kakatiya Mess, but that alone cannot represent Telugu cuisine and where do you go when you want something more? Luckily in the last one year alone we have more than a few options popping up.

And what sets Anaganaga apart is that the ingredients are all in fact Telugu, which have been brought to life after deep research. It’s not a fusion gimmick in case that’s what the assumption is. Not at all.

All right, so let’s come to the food itself. In Anaganana, there is of course the familiar Telugu/Hyderabadi food, and then there is the ‘imaginative’ menu, which is what I implore everyone to try. Kitna Biryani aur meals khate?

There is this habit among us meat lovers where we will not even glance at the vegetarian side, but at Anaganaga since everything was on the table, I tried the veg food also. And I honestly can’t remember the last time I reached out repeatedly for anything that wasn’t meat. The Kandagadda Nachos (yam crisps) and Dosa are in fact two among my favourites there. There’s a lot to try, and I think it is going to take more than a few visits for anyone to fully understand what the menu offers.

And did I mention that the masala corn comes with corn ice cream? Yep, don’t ask me how or why, just try it.

So for anyone interested I’d recommend taking maybe more than a few friends or family members so that way you can try more dishes. By the way, I understand fine dining isn’t for everyone and there have been times where even I’ve had supposedly elevated food only to walk away after being underwhelmed (even quantity wise). But that won’t be the case with Anaganaga at all.

The small bites have lots of options, and aside from what I mentioned earlier, do try the Bottle Gourd Salad, Smoked Beetroot Kebab and the Raw Mango and Shrimp Dumpling. These are all familiar flavours, but in combinations that many of us don’t really expect or think would work. But it does. Just like the Gongoora Khichdi or the Natu Kodi Ramen. Yep. Try it. While everyone was busy taking bites out of everything, I literally finished my ramen in a few minutes (in retrospect that was a mistake at a tasting) because it was that good.

Whoever thought that Telugu flavours would taste so well in a ramen format has done very well (saying this as someone who has been to Japan and had ramen there). What I like most about Anaganaga is that the menu also curates dishes from all of the three Telugu regions – Telangana, coastal Andhra and Rayalaseema. So if you want something specific on the traditional side, you have that too.

Conclusion

So while we have our Biryani, which will probably never be beaten as the our best dish, I think now there’s a lot to try for anyone who travels to Hyderabad. Of course there will always be people who will crave hole in the wall spaces and traditional or places with history. For that we have our Nayaab, Grand Hotel, Kakatiya Mess or whatever else there is. But for those who also want to try something new, Anaganaga, ROCH and Theta Theta Telugu are now places I will recommend without a second thought. I’m actually enjoying this shift, because when I feel nostalgic I can always run back to our older restaurants and cafes for things we’ve grown up with.