Heirlome Spring 2027: Take a Bow

by · WWD
Heirlome Spring 2027 ready-to-wear show at New York Fashion Week.Courtesy of Heirlome

“Please, don’t make me walk out there.”

That was Stephanie Suberville’s reaction to the publicist backstage nudging her to take a bow after her first fashion show on the last day of fashion week. It spoke volumes about the Monterey native as this show, she would later explain, wasn’t even about her. Suberville dedicated it to Mariacarmen Jimenez, whose father Angélico she collaborated with on a series of animalic prints for fall 2024 inspired by his caved wood creatures.

After his passing, Suberville went to visit Mariacarmen in Oaxaca, Mexico, saying she was impressed by how, in her time of mourning, she was still working to keep the tradition alive. “I was like, ‘Oh my god, we need to do a show’ because this isn’t just a collaboration, it’s like a family.”

Passing down traditions, uplifting artisans, building family — those are the values Suberville has engrained in Heirlome over the last four years. And while nice in theory, they don’t always have financial merit, but she’s proving it can be done — and at the highest degree of luxury.

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Suberville said she always fantasized about doing a show, but “this was the right time in the business where we could actually afford it.”

Making the moment more apt was her foray into denim. Evening tops are Heirlome’s bestsellers and Suberville noticed customers pairing theirs with jeans, so she provided standout ones, creased with puddle hems, and a drop-waist circle skirt with cage-like topstitching, all made from cotton sourced in Mexico.

Denim served the same purpose in the collection as a double-breasted short suit or chocolate leather trench: as a complement to the workmanship of other eye-catching garments. For example, knits woven by a Bolivian women’s collective were so dense they resembled whipped cream or Yeti fur, while Angélico’s spots were patchworked with those by Mariacarmen on a psychedelic caftan, as if father and daughter were in dialogue.

As Heirlome grows, Suberville will have to find more ways for the two sides of her brand DNA — the minimal and the maximal — to share that dialogue. The opening black topcoat sprouting knitted fringe was a start. And maybe jewelry could be next. Mariacarmen’s miniature carvings were used as pendants throughout, adding touches of color.

Suberville reluctantly took her bow in the end with Mariacarmen beside her. “I always wanted Heirlome to be a platform for people that are super talented who maybe didn’t have the same opportunities that I’ve had,” she said. Suberville deserves her flowers too.